Da's Crochet Connection: Sea Shell Motifs/Garland #2

Da's Crochet Connection: Sea Shell Motifs/Garland #2: As promised here are the next two patterns for the sea shell garland. last week I posted the patterns for a star fish and a conch shell. Thi...

Sea Shell Motifs/Garland #2

As promised here are the next two patterns for the sea shell garland. last week I posted the patterns for a star fish and a conch shell. This weeks posting includes the patterns for a sand dollar and a fan shell.

Sand Dollar

Start with a magic circle,  ch 2, 9 hdc in the circle, join with a ss to beginning ch 2, do not end off

Place a stitch marker in the loop, as you will do the next round with a different yarn and pick up this one in round 3

Attach the new yarn in the front loops of any hdc from round 1, ch 8 sc in the next hdc, sc, ch 8 in the next hdc around, join to the beginning ch 8, end off, weave in ends.

Now working in the back loops of the of the hdc from round 1, ch 1 sc in each sc around, join to beginning ch1

Continue around for 6 rounds. In round 7 you will tack down the star.

Continue with round 7, and attach the star by doing an sc but first go through the front of the 4th chain in the chain 8 from round 2 and the sc in the body

sc the star in place and continue with round 7, ss to beginning ch 1

For the final edging revers sc (crab stitch) around the instructions for the reverse sc can be found here

There you have it, a sand dollar! You can find the written pattern here

Fan Shell

The fan shell is worked with ch, sc, hdc, dc, and tr sts. Rows 2,4, and 6 are worked in the front loops of the sts and rows 3 and 5 are done in the front loops of the sts. After finishing 6 rows the bottom of the fan is is added, see written pattern here

After the shell is finished, decorative stitching is added by working an over and under stitch in two rows of the fan shell

Done, the finished fan shell.

Now it's time to put all of the shells together in a garland

Begin by choosing 7 or 8 sea shell motifs, for my garland I chose 7, and gathering your yarn needle and the jute twine for hanging ( I chose jute twine because it gives the garland a rustic look).

Using the jute twine thread the yarn needle and pass the twine under a few stitches. This will hold the seashell in place and also allow you to move the shells around.

Here it is the finished garland!

You can find the patterns for all the shells here

Enjoy your Summer Days!

Happy crocheting!

Crochet Geek : Bavarian Crochet Stitch

Crochet Geek : Bavarian Crochet Stitch: Crochet Wheel Stitch Square - Catherine's Wheel Video Tutorial: Bavarian Crochet Stitch Crochet Dad has a variation of the whee...

Bavarian Crochet Stitch

Crochet Wheel Stitch Square - Catherine's Wheel

Video Tutorial: Bavarian Crochet Stitch

Crochet Dad has a variation of the wheel stitch square using a wheel stitch rectangle. Great idea Crochet Dad!!!
Written by Teresa Richardson
Joined Stitches - The joined stitches will be done by wrapping the yarn around your hook twice, insert the hook through the stitch, pull the yarn through the stitch, wrap the yarn over your hook, pull through two loops, wrap the yarn over, pull through two loops. Leave the last loop of each stitch on your hook. There will be 5 loops on the hook for the corner joined, 8 loops on the hook for the flat edge joined.

NOTE:

1. The wheel stitch with the back post is a heavier stitch using more yarn. It will make a nice and warm afghan.
2. The wheel stitch square can be modified and used with double crochet.
3. The wheel stitch can be easily modified to use more stitches in each wheel

CH 5, Join.
Round 1: *CH 3, work 4 TC joined, CH 1 to secure, CH 3, SL ST in the CH. Complete 4 times total from *. See diagram for stitch placement.

Round 2: * 10 TC in the center eye of the corner joined stitch, SL ST between stitches, Repeat around from *. See Diagram (There will be 4 corner shells at this point. This is the foundation, setting up the square to expand and get larger)

Round 3: Skipping 3 TC on the corner, *SL ST in to the next ST, CH 3, work 4 joined TC across 4 stitches, ch to join, CH 3, SL ST in the same stitch you just completed. Flat Edge Valley - CH 3, Work 7 joined triple crochet across the 3 previous TC, SL ST , 3 TC. CH 3. Repeat from * 4 times total. See Diagram. (There will be 4 corner clusters of 4 TC joined and 4 clusters of 7 TC joined)

Round 4: * 10 TC in the center eye of the corner joined stitch, SL ST between stitches, 6 TC in center joined stitch of the flat edge. Repeat around from *. See Diagram (There will be 4 corner shells with 10 TC and 4 shells on the flat edge of 6 TC)

Rounds 3-4 will be repeated to make the square larger. You can do the traditional triple crochet or a back post triple crochet for the ridge effect as in the image above.
There will be 1 additional wheel stitch on each side as you progress with each round.

Crochet en 80 labores: Apps para tejer 2

Crochet en 80 labores: Apps para tejer 2: Hace unos meses publiqué un post sobre aplicaciones y juegos para tejedoras. Como el tema da mucho de sí, he continuado investigando, y est...

Apps para tejer 2

Hace unos meses publiqué un post sobre aplicaciones y juegos para tejedoras. Como el tema da mucho de sí, he continuado investigando, y estas son las nuevas aplicaciones de las que voy a hablar hoy para  iphone y android.

Stich Counter

Stich Counter es una aplicación con más de 10000 descargas y cuya última actualización es del 13 de enero de 2015. Es gratuita y tiene una puntuación por parte de los usuarios de 4,1.

Según su descripción, se puede realizar el seguimiento de todos los puntos y se pueden añadir etiquetas para proyectos avanzados.

Básicamente, es un contador de puntos o vueltas. Solo tienes que tocar la pantalla cada vez que los terminas, así tienes siempre a mano la cantidad de puntos o vueltas. Si tocas a la derecha de la pantalla, sumas; y si tocas en el lado izquierdo, restas. La interfaz no puede ser más sencilla. Fondo negro con números en color fucsia.

Para mí, no es demasiado interesante.

Si tienes un iphone puedes probar con istichcounters. Me parece muy completa, aunque yo tengo un android y no la he probado. Se pueden contar las vueltas por proyecto, incluir el color, etc.,. .  sin restricciones. En el enlace tienes más información (en inglés).

Crochet Decoder

Aplicación para iphone. Es una guía de instrucciones, símbolos de ganchillo, diagramas básicos, número de tintada, etc.

 Tiene muy buenas críticas entre los usuarios. 







Tejido de punto y crochet Bud

Con una puntuación de 4,1 esta app gratuita "permite realizar un seguimiento de varios proyectos de tejido de punto o crochet simultáneamente". Consta de contador de vueltas, cronómetro, páginas de notas, reglas, linterna, tabla para convertir el tamaño de las agujas del sistema americano al europeo, etc. La pantalla se puede adaptar según tus preferencias se puede comprobar el avance de cada proyecto.




De los aplicaciones que he probado es quizá la que más me gusta. El bloc de notas inicial es muy completo y permite etiquetarlo, esta de la labor, fecha de inicio y finalización, tipo de hilo usado, calibre, indicaciones de cuidados, enlace al patrón original... Tiene un filtro para facilitar las búsquedas. Todavía no he explorado todas sus posibilidades, pero promete mucho.

Knitulator

Knitulator es una aplicación para ganchillo y punto. Una de las grandes ventajas es que permite calcular la cantidad de material necesario para una labor. Solo hace falta una muestra de orientación de 10x10 y knitulator calcula todas las medidas necesarias en puntos y vueltas, tanto en centímetros como en pulgadas. Es gratuita y tiene una puntuación de 4,2 entre los usuarios.

La verdad es que tengo "el corazón partío" entre esta aplicación y la anterior. Las dos me gustan mucho y las encuentro muy útiles.

App para diseñar

 My Mountain Hat Designer (de la marca de lanas Schachenmayr) permite  visualizar un un gorro antes de empezar. Solo hay que seleccionar del tipo de gorro que quieres y añadirle un pompón o no. Así sabes con antelación si te va a gustar o no. Si añades una foto, puedes incluso conocer si le va a quedar bien a la persona destinataria del gorro. 

Se puede usar tanto en el ordenador de casa como en el teléfono móvil y tableta.

¿Ha sido útil la información? Me encantará saber vuestras opiniones.

Saludos y ¡feliz tejido!

Cute Crochet Chat: Cutie Trio Plant Pokes/Magnets

Cute Crochet Chat: Cutie Trio Plant Pokes/Magnets: Cutie Trio Plant Pokes © 2005 Cute Crochet By Jocelyn Sass Cutie Trio Plantpoke or Magnet is copyrighted by Cute Crochet 2001 ...

Cutie Trio Plant Pokes/Magnets

Cutie Trio Plant Pokes © 2005 Cute Crochet



By Jocelyn Sass



Cutie Trio Plantpoke or Magnet is copyrighted by Cute Crochet 2001



You may print it for your personal use, but you may not copy, distribute it, or sell it.



Crochet Cuties PLANTPOKES or MAGNETS



Materials: Scraps of 4-ply worsted weight yarn, White, Black and several pastel colors of choice;



F (3.75mm) hook



Wooden skewer OR craft magnet



Aleene's Designer Tacky Craft Glue;



Blush makeup;



cotton swab (Q-tip)



tapestry needle



Size: Flower measures 2-3/4" across





Rnd 1: With White, ch 2; 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook, join with a sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn. (6).



Rnd 2: 2 sc in ea sc around, join, ch 1, turn. (12).



Rnd 3: (Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) around; join, ch 1, turn. (18).



Rnd 4: (Sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around; join, ch 1, turn. (24).





Petals

Working in Front Loops only around, join desired pastel color with a sl st in any Front Loop of Rnd 4;

ch 2, 4 hdc in same st, skip next st, sl st in next free loop, (5 hdc in
next front loop, skip next st, sl st in next front loop) around; join
with sl st to top of starting ch-2. Fasten off.





Using Black and French Knot, embroider eyes between Rnds 2 & 3, 1/2" apart as shown.



Using makeup and cotton swab, CAREFULLY blush cheeks.



Glue wooden skewer OR magnet to back.



Copyright by Cute Crochet 2005

little woollie: Tapestry crochet - the spotty one

little woollie: Tapestry crochet - the spotty one: Hello. How has your day been?  We have had a good one here with the wind finally stopping and the sun coming out. The boys are bac...

Tapestry Crochet - Harlequin Pattern Tutorial

Hello! 

So today I thought I'd chat a bit about the very cool crochet technique called tapestry crochet. 

 Tapestry crochet allows you to create a piece of crochet that plays with colour changes and flat patterns. 

You use two coloured pieces of yarn and crochet over the colour not in
use, so you can alternate between two colour as the pattern requires.  

That is pretty much it in a nut shell, so if you know how to crochet, draw up a pattern on graph paper and give it a try!  

Tapestry crochet creates a nice thick fabric, and you can be very
creative with the patterns.  I am thinking of lots of things I could
make using this technique! More on that later!

A few people asked for a pattern, so if you want a bit more detail, I
have done a little tutorial and step by step guide, I hope it doesn't
get too confusing. 

So this is how I made my basic harlequin pattern:

Firstly, I used graph paper to draw up my pattern, as you can see it's very simple!  

Each square represents 1 sc stitch. 

My harlequin squares are 13 stitches wide, if you wanted a bigger square
you could continue increasing by 2 stitches each row until you get the
size you want ( i.e., 15, 17, 19, 21 stitches wide, etc)

This is a repeating pattern, so you can make your piece as wide as you like depending on the number of repeats you do.

I am doing 3 repeats, so the first row of my pattern is 6, 1, 13, 1, 13, 1, 6  = 41 chains to start.

So chain 41 in first colour (pink) then lay the second colour (blue)
across the yarn (see above) and ch 1 in pink to trap the blue yarn in
the st so it is ready to be carried along the top of the row.

Sc the first 6 st according to the pattern going over the blue yarn,
when you get to the last pink st, change to blue to complete the st, so
you are ready to use blue for the next st.

ready to do a blue st!

 .

(This is how you change colours throughout the pattern, the stitch
before the changed colour, you finish off with the new colour and then
proceed in the next stitch with the right colour.  I hope that makes
sense, and I''m not too confusing!)

Then you continue on with 1 blue st and 13 pink st, and so on, changing colours as needed and crocheting over the unused colour.

....this is how the first row looks at the end.....

.....bring the unused colour across front of work and 1 ch in pink, then
turn work and start the second row, reading the pattern from left to
right for every wrong side (even numbered) row, and right to left for
odd numbered front side rows.

You get a nice neat edge by trapping the unused yarn at each turn.

...you can see the pattern forming.....so just continue changing from pink to blue and blue to pink as needed.......

....at the last row with 13 blue st, change the colour from pink to blue
in the last stitch of the previous row, then trap the pink wool and ch
and turn,  so you are able to do blue stitches from the start of the row

......here is what it looks like half way through the pattern, now we
just mirror the pattern that we have  done to form the top half of the
squares.

At this point you can change the pink wool to a different colour if you
want to have different colours for all you rows of squares, like I have
done below, or you can continue on with the pink and blue to create a
checkered effect.

This is just a very basic guide to tapestry crochet, but I hope you can
see it's creative possibilities, I think it could be used for many
lovely projects, I am planning a harlequin cot blanket and I think it
would make great face washers and potholders in cotton, I will be trying
out some different patterns for those I think. (Also cushions, bags,
purses, hotwater bottle covers......I could go on and on!)

Anyway, that's it for now, if you do have a go at this and find problems
with my instructions, please let me know and I will try and fix them
up.  

Have a great weekend!

xxxxxx



Edited to add:  If you would like to have a go at a spotty pattern for tapestry crochet I have another post over here with a graph for spots.  xx

You might also like:

Just be happy!: Crochet Bunting {Free Pattern}

Just be happy!: Crochet Bunting {Free Pattern}: This adorable bunting can be used to decorate a bedroom or even a birthday party! It is a fun and rewarding project, it works up quickly...

Crochet Bunting {Free Pattern}

This adorable bunting can be used to decorate a bedroom or even a
birthday party! It is a fun and rewarding project, it works up quickly =
instant gratification! 

To make this project, I used Anne Thread and a 2.25mm crochet hook, a pair of scissors and a yarn needle to weave in the ends.



Abbreviations:

Ch = Chain

Sc = Single Crochet

St(s) = Stitch(es)

Sc2tog = Two Single Crochets worked together to decrease

Row 1: Ch 22, sc in 2nd stitch from hook and in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (21 sts)

Row 2: Sc2tog, 1 sc in each of next 17 sts, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (19 sts)

Row 3: Sc2tog, 1 sc in each of next 15 sts, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (17 sts)

Row 4: Sc2tog, 1 sc in each of next 13 sts, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (15 sts)

Row 5: Sc2tog, 1 sc in each of next 11 sts, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (13 sts)

Row 6: Sc2tog, 1 sc in each of next 9 sts, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (11 sts)

Row 7: Sc2tog, 1 sc in each of next 7 sts, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (9 sts)

Row 8: Sc2tog, 1 sc in each of next 5 sts, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (7 sts)

Row 9: Sc2tog, 1 sc in each of next 3 sts, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (5 sts)

Row 10: Sc2tog, 1 sc in next st, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (3 sts)

Row 11: sc the 3 sts together. Ch 1, sc crochet around the
triangle you created, making 3 sc in each corner to ensure that you get a
nice and flat shape.

Fasten off, weave in loose ends.

I used a different color of thread to string the triangles, by simply
making a chain and slip stitching the triangles along the way.

Enjoy!

Zooty Owl's Crafty Blog: Starflower Mandala: Pattern

Zooty Owl's Crafty Blog: Starflower Mandala: Pattern: About a week ago I made a STARFLOWER MANDALA I posted this photo in online groups and within a few hours I had hundreds of requests for

Starflower Mandala: Pattern

About a week ago I made a STARFLOWER MANDALA

I posted this photo in online groups and within a few hours I had hundreds of requests for the pattern,

I started making another Starflower Mandala so that I could write up the pattern;   while I was writing it up a few lovely ladies from various crochet groups were helping me test the pattern.

We completed the first phase of the testing yesterday morning after I had finished my second mandala:

Another group of lovely ladies helped me run a second test - and I made a THIRD mandala:

I was going to do a complete tutorial for the pattern but the ladies who tested the pattern have assured me that the pattern is very easy to follow.

So, without further ado, here it is:

THE STARFLOWER MANDALA PATTERN


Yarn:  Stylecraft Special DK;   

Hook:  3.50mm

Size:  33cm in diameter

Pattern Terms:  US

(I have included this conversion chart for my UK readers)

Foundation:  6ch, ss to first chain to form a circle

Row 1:  Into the circle,  2ch 2dc cluster, 3ch;   *3dc cluster, 3ch* crochet *to* 5x (6 clusters), ss  into top of first cluster to close,  break off yarn

Note:   a 3dc cluster is formed as follows - yarn over hook, work the first part of the stitch leaving 2 loops on your hook, repeat this twice more (four loops on hook) Yarn over hook and draw through the loops on the hook to form your cluster

Row 2:  Into any 3ch sp, 3ch, 3dc 1ch;  *into next 3ch sp, 4dc (4dc group), 1ch* *to* 5x   (24dc);  ss into top of 3ch at start of row to close

  
Row 3:  Join yarn in sp between 1st and 2nd dc on any 4dc group;  3ch, 1dc into same space;  2dc into each of next 2 spaces between dc;  8ch;  *2dc into each sp between dc on next 4dc group, 8ch* *to* 5x;   ss into top of 3ch at start of row to close.

Note:   3 x groupings of 2dc formed between each 8ch

Row 4:  Join yarn with ss into first dc after any 8ch sp;   ss through front and back loops on next 5dc;  *into 8ch sp, 1sc, 1hdc, 3dc, 1tr, 3ch, 1tr, 3dc, 1hdc, 1sc (Petal formed);  1ss through front and back loops on next 6dc* *to* x5;  into last 8ch sp, 1sc, 1hdc, 3dc, 1tr, 3ch, 1tr, 3dc, 1hdc, 1sc;  break off yarn.

I suppose there could be some debate about the correct way to end this row off, but this works for me:

With a tapestry needle, pull the yarn through from front to back on the first ss, pull to tighten neatly. then thread the yarn through the back loops on the next 5 ss.

Row 5:  Join yarn into the top of the 3rd dc on Row 3;   3ch, 1dc into top of next dc,  *3ch, 1sc into first dc on Petal, 1hdc into next dc,  1dc into each of next 2 stitches;  2dc, 1tr, 3ch, 1tr, 2dc into 3ch sp;  1dc into each of next 2 stitches, 1hdc into next dc, 1sc into next dc,  3ch;  1dc into each of the 3rd and 4th dc onRow 3* *to* x5;   3ch, 1sc into first dc on Petal, 1hdc into next dc,  1dc into each of next 2 stitches;  2dc, 1tr, 3ch, 1tr, 2dc into 3ch sp;  1dc into each of next 2 stitches, 1hdc into next dc, 1sc into next dc,  3ch,  ss into top of 3ch at start of row to close.

Row 6:  Join yarn into centre of any "middle" 2dc grouping, 3ch, 1dc;  *3ch, 1sc into first dc on Petal, 1hdc into next dc,  1dc into each of next 3 stitches;  2dc, 3ch, 2dc into 3ch sp;  1dc into each of next 3 stitches, 1hdc into next dc, 1sc into next dc,  3ch;  2dc into the centre of  "middle" 2dc grouping* *to* x5;   3ch, 1sc into first dc on Petal, 1hdc into next dc,  1dc into each of next 3 stitches;  2dc, 3ch, 2dc into 3ch sp;  1dc into each of next 3 stitches, 1hdc into next dc, 1sc into next dc,  3ch, ss into top of start 3ch

Row 7:  Join yarn into centre of any "middle" 2dc grouping, 1ch, 1sc;  *6ch, 1sc into first dc on Petal, 1hdc into next dc,  1dc into each of next 3 dc;  2dc, 3ch, 2dc into 3ch sp;  1dc into each of next 3 dc, 1hdc into next dc, 1sc into next dc,  6ch;  1 sc into the centre of  "middle" 2dc grouping* *to* x5;   6ch, 1sc into first dc on Petal, 1hdc into next dc,  1dc into each of next 3 dc;  2dc, 3ch, 2dc into 3ch sp;  1dc into each of next 3 dc, 1hdc into next dc, 1sc into next dc,  6ch, ss into start 1ch

Row 8:  Join yarn into first dc on right hand side of any petal 1ch, 1sc into same dc, 1hdc into next dc, 1 dc into each of next 3dc;  2dc, 3ch, 2dc into 3ch sp;  1dc into each of next 3dc; 1hdc into next dc, 1sc into next dc *6ch, 1sc into 6ch onRow 7; 6ch, 1sc into 6ch on Row 7; 6ch 1sc into first dc on petal, 1hdc into next dc, 1dc into each of next 3dc;  2dc, 3ch, 2dc into 3ch sp;  1dc into each of next 3dc, 1hdc into next dc, 1sc into next dc* *to* x5;  6ch, 1sc into 6ch on Row 7;6ch, 1sc into 6ch on Row 7; 6ch, ss into 1ch at start of row

Row 9:  Join yarn into 4th dc on right hand side of any petal;  3ch, 1dc into next dc;  2dc, 3ch, 2dc into 3ch sp;  1dc into each of next 2dc; *(6ch, 1sc into 6ch sp) x3;  6ch;  1dc into 4th dc on petal, 1dc into next dc;  2dc, 3ch, 2dc into 3ch sp;  1dc into each of next 2dc* *to* x5;  (6ch, 1sc into 6ch sp) x3;  6ch

Row 10:  Join yarn into third dc on right side of any petal;  2ch, 1hdc into next dc;  2hdc, 2ch, 2hdc into 3ch sp; 1hdc into each of next 2dc;  *6ch, 1sc into 6ch sp;  6ch, 4dc into next 6ch space;  4dc into next 6ch space;  6ch, 1sc into 6ch sp;  6ch, 1hdc into third dc on petal, 1hdc into next dc;  2hdc, 2ch, 2hdc into 3ch sp;  1hdc into each of next 2dc* *to* x5;  6ch, 1sc into 6ch sp;  6ch, 4dc into next 6ch space;  4dc into next 6ch space;  6ch, 1sc into 6ch sp;  6ch ss into top of 2ch at start of row

Row 11:   Join yarn into third hdc on right side of any petal;   2ch, 1hdc into next hdc, 3hdc into 2ch sp, 1hdc into each of next 2hdc;  *6ch, 3dc into 6ch sp;  6ch,  (1tr into each of next 4 dc) x2;  6ch,  skip first 6ch sp, 3dc into next 6ch sp;  6ch 1hdc into third hdc, 1hdc into next hdc, 3hdc into 2ch sp, 1hdc into each of next 2hdc* *to* x5; ss into top of 2ch at start of row to close

Row 12: Join yarn between 3rd and 4th hdc on right hand side of any petal;  2ch, 1hdc between 4th and 5th hdc, *1ch;  6dc, into each of next two  6ch spaces; 1ch,  skip 1st tr on Row 11;  1tr into each of next 6 tr;  1ch;  6dc into each of next two 6ch spaces, 1ch;  1hdc between 3rd and 4th hdc;  1hdc between 4th and 5th hdc* *to* x5;  1ch;  6dc, 1ch into each of next 2  6ch spaces;  skip 1st tr on Row 11;  1tr into each of next 6 tr;  1ch;  6dc, 1ch into each of next 2 6ch spaces;  ss into top of 2ch at start of row to close 

Row 13:  Join yarn between 2hdc at top of petal;  2ch;  *1hdc into 1ch space, 1hdc into each of next 6dc;  1dc into each of next 6dc; 1tr into each of next 6tr;  1dc into each of next 6dc;  1hdc into each of next 6dc; 1hdc into 1 ch space;  1hdc into space between 2hdc at top of petal*  *to* x5;   1hdc into 1ch space, 1hdc into each of next 6dc;  1dc into each of next 6dc; 1tr into each of next 6tr;  1dc into each of next 6dc;  1hdc into each of next 6dc; 1hdc into 1 ch space,  ss into top of 2ch at start of row to close

Row 14:   Join yarn into second tr of any 6tr sequence on Row 13;   4ch, 1tr into each of next 4tr;  1dc into each of next  13 stitches;  1tr into each of next 2hdc;  1dc into each of next 13 stitches;   *1tr into each of next 5tr:  1dc into each of next  13 stitches;  1tr into each of next 2hdc;  1dc into each of next 13 stitches* *to* x 5;   ss into top of 4ch at start of row to close;

Row 15:  (EDITED)  Join yarn in space between any 2tr at top of petal;  5ch (counts as 1sc and 4ch), skip two spaces then 1 sc in next space;  *4ch, skip 2 spaces, then 1sc in next space*  until last 2 spaces, 4ch, ss into 1st chain at start of row

Row 16:  Join yarn in any 4ch space, 3ch, 2dc in same space, 1ch;  *3dc, 1ch in next 4ch space* to end of row, ss into top of 3ch at start of row to close

Row 17:   Join yarn in 2nd dc of any 3dc group on Row 16;  1ch, 1sc in same space as join, 1ch;  *dc spike to the left of the sc in Row 15;  dc spike to the right of the sc in Row 15 (crossover spike made), 1ch 1sc into the second dc of next 3dc group 1ch* *to* to end of row ss into 1ch at start of row to close.

Note:  When doing the spike stitch keep your tension even but not too tight

Row 18:  Join yarn  with a ss in 1ch sp to the left of any crossover spike, ss in next 1ch sp, *6ch, ss into 4th ch from hook;  ss into 1ch sp to the left of next crossover stitch, ss into next 1ch* *to* to the right of the last crossover spike;  6ch, ss into 4th ch from hook, ss into ss at start of row.

PS:  I have prepared a row by row photo aid to this pattern, which can be foundHERE...