Hopeful Honey | Craft, Crochet, Create: Crocheted Christmas Baubles - Pattern: Since I'm going on holiday in December, I've been buying all my Christmas presents early which has really put me in the Christmas-...
domingo, 13 de diciembre de 2015
Hopeful Honey | Craft, Crochet, Create: Crocheted Christmas Baubles - Pattern
Hopeful Honey | Craft, Crochet, Create: Crocheted Christmas Baubles - Pattern: Since I'm going on holiday in December, I've been buying all my Christmas presents early which has really put me in the Christmas-...
Tw-In Stitches: Sophie's Half Wobbly Hat and Scarf - Free Pattern ...
Tw-In Stitches: Sophie's Half Wobbly Hat and Scarf - Free Pattern ...: Every year, my homeroom advisory draws names for Secret Snowflakes. A few years ago, I made an infinity scarf for Grace and shared that pat...
Fly the Coop Crafts: A Rather Dishie Rainbow of Crochet
Fly the Coop Crafts: A Rather Dishie Rainbow of Crochet: Rainbows are very happy - I mean with all those bright, fun colors striping together right next to one another in a curvy little arc... ...
Fly the Coop Crafts: Stained Glass Coasters - a tutorial
Fly the Coop Crafts: # - a tutorial: I have been busy. I haven't been busy with crochet. So I really NEEDED to get busy with some crochet. And I did. In fact, I wrote a ...I thought it might be cotton but it's not - as you can see it's wool and viscose. Each tiny skein is just 3.28 yards. That's not much. The photo on the top left - the green squiggle there - well that's an entire skein!
I wanted a border around it so I made that addition.
And I wanted to re-create it and photograph the steps for a tutorial and now I have.
I sat here today and worked it all out for you.
And now I will present the step-by-step photo tutorial for the stained glass coaster. (Amer. crochet terms)
Make a magic (adjustable) ring.
chain 1, 8 sc in ring
Pull ring to tighten and join with a slip stitch. Round 1 complete.
ch2, then sc in same stitch as join (ex 1)
*Skip the next stitch (see ex 2). Then (sc, ch2, sc) in next stitch. Repeat from * 3 more times, then sl st to join the round.
You now have a bit of a square (sorry for the blurry photos - I was outside with an camera phone). Round 2 is now complete.
Perform the following stitches in the first ch2 space from the previous round: sc, dc, tr, dc, sc. That completes your first corner petal.
Now, you are going to "dip down" to the skipped stitch from the second round and slip stitch in there.
That kind of defines a stronger petal shape.
*Into the next ch2 space (sc, dc, tr, dc, sc), then sl st into the skipped st from round 2, repeat from * 2 more times. Finish off.
Ta dah! You have now completed ONE little star petal motif. Pull the center string to tighten the middle and weave in the ends (if you are good you will weave in NOW) - often I'm lazy and wait to the end. But it's easier to go on without little tails hanging about.
Next, grab another color and you will start right in on a second motif.
Complete Rounds 1 and 2 with the second color (pink in the example). When you get to round 3, complete ONE petal (petal = sc, dc, tr, dc, sc) and one dip down slip stitch.
Then, complete the first half of the next petal (sc, dc, tr). This is where you will make the join to the first motif. Joining the green and pink motifs will require a join to the top of TWO petals. I do the join on the second and third petals. To make the join, I follow the basic procedure used by Lucy at Attic24 in her "join as you go method." Basically - my method is the same concept. Keep in mind that each joining stitch in this coaster pattern uses a slip stitch as the joining stitch.
So as seen in example 1 above, I have made 1.5 petals on the pink motif. In example 2, I put the hook through the two loops at the top of the tr-stitch on the green petal. Yarn over with the pink and pull it through the green and pink loops.
In example 3 I have completed my first join and I have continued on to finish the rest of the petal by making a (dc, sc) in the same chain2 space.
Now, slip stitch into the skipped stitch from round 2. Then make another half of a petal (sc, dc, tr), then make the second join with the green motif (see example 4) finish off the third petal by making a (dc, sc) in that same chain2 space.
Slip stitch in the next skipped stitch from round 2, complete one more petal (sc, dc, tr, dc, sc) - no joining needed on this one and TA DAH! Example 5 shows two happily joined star petal flowers.
I hope that makes sense. Please feel free to contact me if you need further explanation.
Let's continue on.
The top left photo (above) shows THREE little motifs joined in a row. When you get to motif to the second "row" of motifs you will need to join each motif at THREE of its four petals points rather than just at two.
When I join three sides, I like to make 1/2 a petal, join, then complete the petal. Slip stitch (dip down), complete 1/2 of the next petal, join a second time (this time I join by going BETWEEN the joined space of the two motifs), then complete that petal. Dip down slip stitch, then make 1/2 a petal. Join one last time, complete the third petal, slip stitch and make a complete fourth petal all on it's own with no joining.
Remember a full petal is (sc, dc, tr, dc, sc) and a Joined petal is (sc, dc, tr, join, dc, sc).
Again, it's the same concept that Lucy describes in her join as you go method. My joins are always done with a slip stitch for this project. She clearly shows how to join on two sides and how to join on three sides. She joins granny squares but the concept is very much the same. My motif has only 4 corners, and no sides, so there are fewer places it needs to be joined.
Make and join three more motifs until there are a total of nine! Voila! There you have it. A rainbow of tiny little star petal motifs all joined up together - three rows of three, a very nicely formed little square.
I decided that the motifs reminded me a bit of a stained glass window. That's when I realized I wanted a border around the outside edge. I came up with a really simple border - enough to just hold the square together and make it straighten out a bit.
Here's how.
Join a black yarn in any corner. 5sc in that corner. *ch2. dc into the same "dip down slip stitch" as in round 3 of the motif. ch2. dc over the join between the motifs. ch 2. dc, in the dip down slip stitch, ch 2, dc in the join, ch 2, dc in the dip down, ch2, 5sc in next corner. Repeat from * 2 more times. Now 3 sides of your square have a border. On the last side, follow the same pattern, but when you get back around to the first corner join the first sc (of the 5sc) with a sl st to close the round. Finish off and weave in all ends and clip them.
Easy, right?
And here's how that looks:
I love the way it seems like the flower motifs are floating inside the border, so unobtrusive!
so... I figured I'd have to get kind of creative with anything crochet. I sat down and created a little tiny star/flower motif... I joined them together and created a stained glass coaster.
The first one I created looked like this:
And I wanted to re-create it and photograph the steps for a tutorial and now I have.
I sat here today and worked it all out for you.
And now I will present the step-by-step photo tutorial for the stained glass coaster. (Amer. crochet terms)
Make a magic (adjustable) ring.
chain 1, 8 sc in ring
Pull ring to tighten and join with a slip stitch. Round 1 complete.
ch2, then sc in same stitch as join (ex 1)
*Skip the next stitch (see ex 2). Then (sc, ch2, sc) in next stitch. Repeat from * 3 more times, then sl st to join the round.
You now have a bit of a square (sorry for the blurry photos - I was outside with an camera phone). Round 2 is now complete.
Perform the following stitches in the first ch2 space from the previous round: sc, dc, tr, dc, sc. That completes your first corner petal.
Now, you are going to "dip down" to the skipped stitch from the second round and slip stitch in there.
That kind of defines a stronger petal shape.
*Into the next ch2 space (sc, dc, tr, dc, sc), then sl st into the skipped st from round 2, repeat from * 2 more times. Finish off.
Ta dah! You have now completed ONE little star petal motif. Pull the center string to tighten the middle and weave in the ends (if you are good you will weave in NOW) - often I'm lazy and wait to the end. But it's easier to go on without little tails hanging about.
Next, grab another color and you will start right in on a second motif.
Complete Rounds 1 and 2 with the second color (pink in the example). When you get to round 3, complete ONE petal (petal = sc, dc, tr, dc, sc) and one dip down slip stitch.
Then, complete the first half of the next petal (sc, dc, tr). This is where you will make the join to the first motif. Joining the green and pink motifs will require a join to the top of TWO petals. I do the join on the second and third petals. To make the join, I follow the basic procedure used by Lucy at Attic24 in her "join as you go method." Basically - my method is the same concept. Keep in mind that each joining stitch in this coaster pattern uses a slip stitch as the joining stitch.
So as seen in example 1 above, I have made 1.5 petals on the pink motif. In example 2, I put the hook through the two loops at the top of the tr-stitch on the green petal. Yarn over with the pink and pull it through the green and pink loops.
In example 3 I have completed my first join and I have continued on to finish the rest of the petal by making a (dc, sc) in the same chain2 space.
Now, slip stitch into the skipped stitch from round 2. Then make another half of a petal (sc, dc, tr), then make the second join with the green motif (see example 4) finish off the third petal by making a (dc, sc) in that same chain2 space.
Slip stitch in the next skipped stitch from round 2, complete one more petal (sc, dc, tr, dc, sc) - no joining needed on this one and TA DAH! Example 5 shows two happily joined star petal flowers.
I hope that makes sense. Please feel free to contact me if you need further explanation.
Let's continue on.
The top left photo (above) shows THREE little motifs joined in a row. When you get to motif to the second "row" of motifs you will need to join each motif at THREE of its four petals points rather than just at two.
When I join three sides, I like to make 1/2 a petal, join, then complete the petal. Slip stitch (dip down), complete 1/2 of the next petal, join a second time (this time I join by going BETWEEN the joined space of the two motifs), then complete that petal. Dip down slip stitch, then make 1/2 a petal. Join one last time, complete the third petal, slip stitch and make a complete fourth petal all on it's own with no joining.
Remember a full petal is (sc, dc, tr, dc, sc) and a Joined petal is (sc, dc, tr, join, dc, sc).
Again, it's the same concept that Lucy describes in her join as you go method. My joins are always done with a slip stitch for this project. She clearly shows how to join on two sides and how to join on three sides. She joins granny squares but the concept is very much the same. My motif has only 4 corners, and no sides, so there are fewer places it needs to be joined.
Make and join three more motifs until there are a total of nine! Voila! There you have it. A rainbow of tiny little star petal motifs all joined up together - three rows of three, a very nicely formed little square.
I decided that the motifs reminded me a bit of a stained glass window. That's when I realized I wanted a border around the outside edge. I came up with a really simple border - enough to just hold the square together and make it straighten out a bit.
Here's how.
Join a black yarn in any corner. 5sc in that corner. *ch2. dc into the same "dip down slip stitch" as in round 3 of the motif. ch2. dc over the join between the motifs. ch 2. dc, in the dip down slip stitch, ch 2, dc in the join, ch 2, dc in the dip down, ch2, 5sc in next corner. Repeat from * 2 more times. Now 3 sides of your square have a border. On the last side, follow the same pattern, but when you get back around to the first corner join the first sc (of the 5sc) with a sl st to close the round. Finish off and weave in all ends and clip them.
Easy, right?
And here's how that looks:
I love the way it seems like the flower motifs are floating inside the border, so unobtrusive!
Atelier Marie-Lucienne: A Hundred-Year-Old Man / Ein Hundertjähriger
Atelier Marie-Lucienne: A Hundred-Year-Old Man / Ein Hundertjähriger: Dear friends, the next two weeks will be rather stressful. Not because of Christmas though – no stress there (have already got all...
A Hundred-Year-Old Man / Ein Hundertjähriger
Dear friends,
the next two weeks will be rather stressful. Not because of Christmas though – no stress there (have already got all the presents and I'm enjoying the Christmas tree) – but because of birthday parties!
Today my uncle (my dad's “little” brother) celebrates his 60th birthday. So soon we'll be off to Belgium.
Next Friday though, we'll be in Belgium again, as my (maternal) granddad turns 100! He's just marvellous and I love him very very much!
Finding a birthday present for my uncle was no problem at all. He's a racing cyclist and would like a new, more sophisticated bike – so there's a piggybank to feed.
Finding something suitable for my granddad was a tough nut to crack. Last year he moved into a retirement home and he kind of has all he needs and little space for much more. Now what? Actually my mum came up with an idea. In the evenings my granddad likes to watch telly but he told my mum it gets chilly after a while. He's already got a blanket to put on his lap, but his hands are still cold. Thus my mum thought of a hand muff! Great! Thanks mum!
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| Here's my husband posing as my granddad... |
Interested in making one yourself?
Grandad's Muff:
I used merino yarn bought at Lidl's (grey and black) and a N°6 hook.
Start with the cuffs:
ch 15 (+ ch 1 to next row) and continue crocheting dc (back loop only) till you have 33 rows. Fasten off. Sew together, weave in threads.
Now to the actual muff:
You'll be working in circles from now on.
Cast on 34 dc (+ ch 1) along one side of the cuff using black yarn, ss in 1st dc [= 34 times (dc + ch 1)]. Fasten off and weave in threads.
Next circle is made in grey wool: (dc + ch 1) in each loop, ss in 1st dc. I think this stitch is called “moss stitch”, could be mistaking though. You'll need 19 rows in total.
Now make the second half.
Join both halves with (dc + ch 1) from the inside. Fasten off an weave in threads.
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| Wrong side |
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| Right side |
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