Zooty Owl's Crafty Blog: Starflower Mandala: Pattern

Zooty Owl's Crafty Blog: Starflower Mandala: Pattern: About a week ago I made a STARFLOWER MANDALA I posted this photo in online groups and within a few hours I had hundreds of requests for

Starflower Mandala: Pattern

About a week ago I made a STARFLOWER MANDALA

I posted this photo in online groups and within a few hours I had hundreds of requests for the pattern,

I started making another Starflower Mandala so that I could write up the pattern;   while I was writing it up a few lovely ladies from various crochet groups were helping me test the pattern.

We completed the first phase of the testing yesterday morning after I had finished my second mandala:

Another group of lovely ladies helped me run a second test - and I made a THIRD mandala:

I was going to do a complete tutorial for the pattern but the ladies who tested the pattern have assured me that the pattern is very easy to follow.

So, without further ado, here it is:

THE STARFLOWER MANDALA PATTERN


Yarn:  Stylecraft Special DK;   

Hook:  3.50mm

Size:  33cm in diameter

Pattern Terms:  US

(I have included this conversion chart for my UK readers)

Foundation:  6ch, ss to first chain to form a circle

Row 1:  Into the circle,  2ch 2dc cluster, 3ch;   *3dc cluster, 3ch* crochet *to* 5x (6 clusters), ss  into top of first cluster to close,  break off yarn

Note:   a 3dc cluster is formed as follows - yarn over hook, work the first part of the stitch leaving 2 loops on your hook, repeat this twice more (four loops on hook) Yarn over hook and draw through the loops on the hook to form your cluster

Row 2:  Into any 3ch sp, 3ch, 3dc 1ch;  *into next 3ch sp, 4dc (4dc group), 1ch* *to* 5x   (24dc);  ss into top of 3ch at start of row to close

  
Row 3:  Join yarn in sp between 1st and 2nd dc on any 4dc group;  3ch, 1dc into same space;  2dc into each of next 2 spaces between dc;  8ch;  *2dc into each sp between dc on next 4dc group, 8ch* *to* 5x;   ss into top of 3ch at start of row to close.

Note:   3 x groupings of 2dc formed between each 8ch

Row 4:  Join yarn with ss into first dc after any 8ch sp;   ss through front and back loops on next 5dc;  *into 8ch sp, 1sc, 1hdc, 3dc, 1tr, 3ch, 1tr, 3dc, 1hdc, 1sc (Petal formed);  1ss through front and back loops on next 6dc* *to* x5;  into last 8ch sp, 1sc, 1hdc, 3dc, 1tr, 3ch, 1tr, 3dc, 1hdc, 1sc;  break off yarn.

I suppose there could be some debate about the correct way to end this row off, but this works for me:

With a tapestry needle, pull the yarn through from front to back on the first ss, pull to tighten neatly. then thread the yarn through the back loops on the next 5 ss.

Row 5:  Join yarn into the top of the 3rd dc on Row 3;   3ch, 1dc into top of next dc,  *3ch, 1sc into first dc on Petal, 1hdc into next dc,  1dc into each of next 2 stitches;  2dc, 1tr, 3ch, 1tr, 2dc into 3ch sp;  1dc into each of next 2 stitches, 1hdc into next dc, 1sc into next dc,  3ch;  1dc into each of the 3rd and 4th dc onRow 3* *to* x5;   3ch, 1sc into first dc on Petal, 1hdc into next dc,  1dc into each of next 2 stitches;  2dc, 1tr, 3ch, 1tr, 2dc into 3ch sp;  1dc into each of next 2 stitches, 1hdc into next dc, 1sc into next dc,  3ch,  ss into top of 3ch at start of row to close.

Row 6:  Join yarn into centre of any "middle" 2dc grouping, 3ch, 1dc;  *3ch, 1sc into first dc on Petal, 1hdc into next dc,  1dc into each of next 3 stitches;  2dc, 3ch, 2dc into 3ch sp;  1dc into each of next 3 stitches, 1hdc into next dc, 1sc into next dc,  3ch;  2dc into the centre of  "middle" 2dc grouping* *to* x5;   3ch, 1sc into first dc on Petal, 1hdc into next dc,  1dc into each of next 3 stitches;  2dc, 3ch, 2dc into 3ch sp;  1dc into each of next 3 stitches, 1hdc into next dc, 1sc into next dc,  3ch, ss into top of start 3ch

Row 7:  Join yarn into centre of any "middle" 2dc grouping, 1ch, 1sc;  *6ch, 1sc into first dc on Petal, 1hdc into next dc,  1dc into each of next 3 dc;  2dc, 3ch, 2dc into 3ch sp;  1dc into each of next 3 dc, 1hdc into next dc, 1sc into next dc,  6ch;  1 sc into the centre of  "middle" 2dc grouping* *to* x5;   6ch, 1sc into first dc on Petal, 1hdc into next dc,  1dc into each of next 3 dc;  2dc, 3ch, 2dc into 3ch sp;  1dc into each of next 3 dc, 1hdc into next dc, 1sc into next dc,  6ch, ss into start 1ch

Row 8:  Join yarn into first dc on right hand side of any petal 1ch, 1sc into same dc, 1hdc into next dc, 1 dc into each of next 3dc;  2dc, 3ch, 2dc into 3ch sp;  1dc into each of next 3dc; 1hdc into next dc, 1sc into next dc *6ch, 1sc into 6ch onRow 7; 6ch, 1sc into 6ch on Row 7; 6ch 1sc into first dc on petal, 1hdc into next dc, 1dc into each of next 3dc;  2dc, 3ch, 2dc into 3ch sp;  1dc into each of next 3dc, 1hdc into next dc, 1sc into next dc* *to* x5;  6ch, 1sc into 6ch on Row 7;6ch, 1sc into 6ch on Row 7; 6ch, ss into 1ch at start of row

Row 9:  Join yarn into 4th dc on right hand side of any petal;  3ch, 1dc into next dc;  2dc, 3ch, 2dc into 3ch sp;  1dc into each of next 2dc; *(6ch, 1sc into 6ch sp) x3;  6ch;  1dc into 4th dc on petal, 1dc into next dc;  2dc, 3ch, 2dc into 3ch sp;  1dc into each of next 2dc* *to* x5;  (6ch, 1sc into 6ch sp) x3;  6ch

Row 10:  Join yarn into third dc on right side of any petal;  2ch, 1hdc into next dc;  2hdc, 2ch, 2hdc into 3ch sp; 1hdc into each of next 2dc;  *6ch, 1sc into 6ch sp;  6ch, 4dc into next 6ch space;  4dc into next 6ch space;  6ch, 1sc into 6ch sp;  6ch, 1hdc into third dc on petal, 1hdc into next dc;  2hdc, 2ch, 2hdc into 3ch sp;  1hdc into each of next 2dc* *to* x5;  6ch, 1sc into 6ch sp;  6ch, 4dc into next 6ch space;  4dc into next 6ch space;  6ch, 1sc into 6ch sp;  6ch ss into top of 2ch at start of row

Row 11:   Join yarn into third hdc on right side of any petal;   2ch, 1hdc into next hdc, 3hdc into 2ch sp, 1hdc into each of next 2hdc;  *6ch, 3dc into 6ch sp;  6ch,  (1tr into each of next 4 dc) x2;  6ch,  skip first 6ch sp, 3dc into next 6ch sp;  6ch 1hdc into third hdc, 1hdc into next hdc, 3hdc into 2ch sp, 1hdc into each of next 2hdc* *to* x5; ss into top of 2ch at start of row to close

Row 12: Join yarn between 3rd and 4th hdc on right hand side of any petal;  2ch, 1hdc between 4th and 5th hdc, *1ch;  6dc, into each of next two  6ch spaces; 1ch,  skip 1st tr on Row 11;  1tr into each of next 6 tr;  1ch;  6dc into each of next two 6ch spaces, 1ch;  1hdc between 3rd and 4th hdc;  1hdc between 4th and 5th hdc* *to* x5;  1ch;  6dc, 1ch into each of next 2  6ch spaces;  skip 1st tr on Row 11;  1tr into each of next 6 tr;  1ch;  6dc, 1ch into each of next 2 6ch spaces;  ss into top of 2ch at start of row to close 

Row 13:  Join yarn between 2hdc at top of petal;  2ch;  *1hdc into 1ch space, 1hdc into each of next 6dc;  1dc into each of next 6dc; 1tr into each of next 6tr;  1dc into each of next 6dc;  1hdc into each of next 6dc; 1hdc into 1 ch space;  1hdc into space between 2hdc at top of petal*  *to* x5;   1hdc into 1ch space, 1hdc into each of next 6dc;  1dc into each of next 6dc; 1tr into each of next 6tr;  1dc into each of next 6dc;  1hdc into each of next 6dc; 1hdc into 1 ch space,  ss into top of 2ch at start of row to close

Row 14:   Join yarn into second tr of any 6tr sequence on Row 13;   4ch, 1tr into each of next 4tr;  1dc into each of next  13 stitches;  1tr into each of next 2hdc;  1dc into each of next 13 stitches;   *1tr into each of next 5tr:  1dc into each of next  13 stitches;  1tr into each of next 2hdc;  1dc into each of next 13 stitches* *to* x 5;   ss into top of 4ch at start of row to close;

Row 15:  (EDITED)  Join yarn in space between any 2tr at top of petal;  5ch (counts as 1sc and 4ch), skip two spaces then 1 sc in next space;  *4ch, skip 2 spaces, then 1sc in next space*  until last 2 spaces, 4ch, ss into 1st chain at start of row

Row 16:  Join yarn in any 4ch space, 3ch, 2dc in same space, 1ch;  *3dc, 1ch in next 4ch space* to end of row, ss into top of 3ch at start of row to close

Row 17:   Join yarn in 2nd dc of any 3dc group on Row 16;  1ch, 1sc in same space as join, 1ch;  *dc spike to the left of the sc in Row 15;  dc spike to the right of the sc in Row 15 (crossover spike made), 1ch 1sc into the second dc of next 3dc group 1ch* *to* to end of row ss into 1ch at start of row to close.

Note:  When doing the spike stitch keep your tension even but not too tight

Row 18:  Join yarn  with a ss in 1ch sp to the left of any crossover spike, ss in next 1ch sp, *6ch, ss into 4th ch from hook;  ss into 1ch sp to the left of next crossover stitch, ss into next 1ch* *to* to the right of the last crossover spike;  6ch, ss into 4th ch from hook, ss into ss at start of row.

PS:  I have prepared a row by row photo aid to this pattern, which can be foundHERE...

Nancy Drew Designs: Granny Sweet Heart Pattern

Nancy Drew Designs: Granny Sweet Heart Pattern: February is almost here.  So I've been working on a crocheted heart that can be used for coasters or attached on a tie for cute wall bu...

Granny Sweet Heart Pattern

February is almost here.  So I've been working on a crocheted heart that can be used for coasters or attached on a tie for cute wall buntings.  After several starts and restarts, I finally came up with a design that I liked.  There are several similar heart designs based on granny squares, but nothing that was working out for me.  I wanted something with several colors, but yet something that still looked like a heart and would be good for a nursery.  I also wanted something that would work with different weight yarns.  This is what I came up with, my Granny Sweet Heart.

   

I've written up the pattern to share with you.  For the hearts pictured, I used sport weight cotton.  The hearts measure (unblocked) about 5-1/2" at the widest point and 6" in length. 

To make them into buntings, crochet a chain and attach the hearts with double crochets into one or two of the border loops, while evenly spacing the hearts along the chain as you crocheted it.  I plan to use some of my hearts for coasters.  I also plan to do some with worsted cotton for dish cloths.  Don't you agree that they'd make super gifts.  Who doesn't need a little fun and color in the kitchen?  

Here's the pattern.  I hope you enjoy making these colorful hearts as much as I do.  Please let me know if you find any errors so that I may correct them.

Have a wonderful day!

Sweet Hearts Bunting Pattern

Note:   Click here for related chart that was added 1/15/2016.

Any type of yarn will work for this pattern.  I used KnitPicks sport weight Comfy and a 4mm hook.  Adjust your hook if you use a different weight yarn. 

1.       Ch 4 and sl-st to form a ring.  Ch 3, 2 dc in ring, (ch 2, 3 dc in ring) 3 times.  Ch 2, sl-st in top of ch-3.  Secure and break yarn.

2.        Attach next color with a sl-st into any ch 2-sp.  (Ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same ch-2 sp.  (Ch 1, 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc in next ch-2 sp) 3 times.  Ch 1, sl-st in top of beginning ch 3.  Do not break yarn.

3.        Sl-st into the next 2 dc and then into the ch-2 space.  Ch 1, 3 sc in same ch-2 sp.  This will be the point of the heart.  Sc in the next 3 dc, sc in the next ch-1 sp, sc in next 3 dc, sc in ch-2 sp.  Skip 3 dc, 12 tr in ch-1 sp.  Skip 3 dc, sl-st in next ch-2 sp.  Skip 3 dc, 12 tr in next ch-1 sp.  Skip 3 dc, sc into next ch-2 sp, sc into next 7 st (dc’s and ch sp), sl-st into 1^st sc of 3-sc cluster.  Secure and break yarn.

4.        With new color, join yarn in middle (2^nd) sc of 3-sc cluster at heart’s point.  Ch 1, 3 sc in same stitch.  Sc in next 13 st.  (2 sc in next tr, sc in next tr) 3 times, sc in next 2 st, sl-st over sl-st of previous row down between tr’s of row 3.  Sc in next 3 st, (2 sc in next stitch, sc in next stitch) 3 times.  Sc in next 12 st, sl-st in starting sc.  Secure and break yarn.

5.        With new color, join yarn in middle (2^nd) sc of 3-sc cluster at heart’s point.  Ch 1, 3 sc in same stitch.  Sc in next 12 st.  (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) 4 times.  Sc3tog (see special stitches below), sc in next 2 st, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) 4 times.  Sc in next 10 sc.  Sl-st into starting sc.  Secure and break yarn.

6.       With new color, join in middle (2^nd) sc of 3-sc cluster at heart’s point.   Ch 1, 3 sc in same stitch.  Sc in next 12 sc.  (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc) 4 times.  Sc3tog, sc in next 3 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc) 4 times.  Sc in next 9 sc, sl-st into starting sc.  Secure and break yarn.

7.       Join new color with a sc in 2^nd sc of 3 sc cluster at heart’s point, ch 3, sc in same stitch as join.  (Ch 3, skip one stitch, sc in next stitch) around heart.  End with sl-st into starting sc.  Secure and break yarn.  Weave in ends.

Abbreviations (US terminology):  

Ch – chain

Sl-st – slip stitch

Sc – single crochet

Dc – double crochet

Tr – treble crochet

Sc3tog – single crochet 3 stitches together (see special stitches below) 

Special Stitches:

Sc3tog- Insert hook in 1^st stitch, yo and pull through that stitch, (keep both stitches on hook), insert    hook through 2^ndstitch, yo and pull through that stitch (3 stitches on hook), insert hook through 3^rd stitch, yo and pull through that stitch, yo and pull through four stitches on hook.

Copyright Nancy Drew (AKA YarnPumpkin), 2014.   Please respect my copyright and do not resell, publish, or distribute this pattern.  However, you are free to use the final items you make from the pattern for charity, gifting, or selling in limited numbers. A link back to my webpage is greatly appreciated.  

Zooty Owl's Crafty Blog: Starflower Mandala: Pattern

Zooty Owl's Crafty Blog: Starflower Mandala: Pattern: About a week ago I made a STARFLOWER MANDALA I posted this photo in online groups and within a few hours I had hundreds of requests for .

Starflower Mandala: Row by Row

Two or so weeks back I posted my STARFLOWER MANDALA PATTERN

The original plan was to provide photos of each row  - but there was such a high demand for the pattern (long weekend = lots of crochet time) - so I decided to go ahead and publish with just the few photos of the first four rows!

Hundreds (maybe thousands?) of people have by now made the Starflower Mandala (the pattern has been viewed some 65 000 times! - and counting!)

YAY!   So exciting to see all the colourful versions of my pattern showing up everywhere!

I thought I would do a row by row breakdown of the pattern anyway - "pattern-speak" can make the mind boggle a bit and a picture always makes it a bit easier to fathom! 

My patterns are all written in US TERMS, which could prove a bit confusing if you are used to UK Terms!   I  made this little conversion chart, which I will include in all my patterns from now on, for ease of reference.

My original STARFLOWER MANDALAS were crocheted with Stylecraft Special DK and a 3.50mm hook, giving a finished Mandala of 33 cm in diameter.

The Starflower Mandala in this post was made with Raeesah Cotton Soft DK and a 4.00mm hook, giving me a finished Mandala of 45cm in diameter.

Yarn weights are referred to quite differently in various regions, so I thought I would also include this rather useful RAVELRY LINK for Standard Yarn Weights.

Crochet Hook Sizes are also referred to differently - if you need to know which hook to use go and have a look HERE

The photos were taken at various times over the course of a few days -  so there is a bit of variation in the colouring.   

The Starflower Mandala pattern can be found HERE!

The photo above is a little bit out of focus (I was precariously perched on a wall when taking this photo!)

..