Susan Pinner: How to Add Granny Square Corners to a large circul...

Susan Pinner: How to Add Granny Square Corners to a large circul...: Mandala Madness link How to turn a large circle or Mandala into a square using Granny Square corners GRANNY SQUARE CORNER PATTER...

How to Add Granny Square Corners to a large circular motif...a mandala may be

Mandala Madness link

How to turn a large circle or Mandala into a square using Granny Square corners

GRANNY SQUARE CORNER PATTERN TO MAKE A LARGE CIRCLE INTO A SQUARE

NOTE: To see how many rows of granny shells you need to add to create each corner place Place your circular motif onto a basic granny square made in the same yarn as the motif to give you an idea of what needs to be added.

Divide the circle into 8ths and mark with a length of yarn

It's not an exact science but it will give you an idea of what you need to add to the corner markers 4 times.

looking at the picture the first row of granny shells need to cover about 6 sts either side of the marker.

ROW1: Att. yarn 3 sts away from the corner marker, miss 2sts,

3dc, ch3, 3dc in the corner marker, pulling out the marker.

miss 2sts, sl st, into next st.

ROW 2: ch 3, miss 2sts, sl st into next st, turn,

2dc into sp between circle and last dc of row1.

3dc, ch3, 3dc into point of corner, 3dc in the sp between the circle and the first dc of row1, miss 2 sts, sl st,into next st.

ROW 3: ch3, miss 2sts, sl st into next st, turn, tr,2dc into sp, between circle and last dc, of row 2, 3dc, in next sp, 3dc, ch3, 3dc in point, 3dc into next sp, 2dc,1tr into sp, between circle and first dc of row 2, miss 2sts, sl st into next st.

ROW4: ch3, miss 2sts, sl st into next st,

HERE YOU SHOULD BE 3STS FROM SIDE MARKER

Turn, tr, 2dc into sp between circle and last tr of row 3, 3dc in next 2 sps, 3dc,3ch,3dc in point, 3dc in next 2 sps, 2dc,1tr in sp, between circle and first dc of row 3.miss two sts, sl st into next st. This completes the corner.

HERE YOU SHOULD BE 3STS FROM SIDE MARKER.

The corners were added to a circle of 9.5" and a corner of 30sts total number of sts was 120 all the way around

Repeat for the next 3 corners.

The next round will be all the way around the now GRANNY SQUARE with a mandala in the middle.

This should work on similar circles of similar size, with a few sts or half an inch of diameter more.

If you have a lot bigger circle then add as many granny row corners as you need using the pattern.

If you love to make mandalas or circles but don't know what to do with them make a square and join together in blocks

Zooty Owl's Crafty Blog: Daisy Centre Mandala Pattern

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Daisy Centre Mandala Pattern

I am not really a Mandala "person", but I have been seeing a lot of them lately - such bursts of inspirational colour! 

The other afternoon I was not in the mood for any of my WIP's - I desperately needed a bit of colourplay!    

This is the result of an afternoon and evening well spent:

DAISY CENTRE MANDALA:
 
Pattern terms:   US
Hook:  5.00mm 
Yarn:   Elle Pullskein DK

Each row is worked in a different colour 

Note:    these Mandalas are components of a bigger project I am working on - I needed them to be "stretchy" and therefore used a larger hook;    A 4.00mm to 4.50mm depending on your tension will probably be a better option for this type of yarn

Foundation:  4ch, ss to form ring
 
Row 1:  4 ch (counts as 1dc 1ch), 1dc 1ch into ring (repeat 11 times) (12 x 1dc, 1ch groups) ss to close, break off yarn 

Row 2:  Into any 1ch sp,  2ch 2dc cluster, 3ch;   *3dc cluster, 3ch* crochet *to* 11x (12 clusters), ss to close, break off yarn 

Note:   a 3dc cluster is formed as follows - yarn over hook, work the first part of the stitch leaving 2 loops on your hook, repeat this twice more (four loops on hook) Yarn over hook and draw through the loops on the hook to form your cluster

Row 3  Into any 3ch sp, 3ch 2dc 1ch;   *3dc, 1ch into next 3ch sp* repeat *to* to end, ss to close, break off yarn

Row 4:  Into any 1ch sp, 3ch, 1dc, 1ch, 2dc, 1ch:  *2dc, 1ch, 2dc, 1ch into next 1ch sp* repeat *to* to end, ss to close, break off yarn

Row 5:   Into any 1ch sp, 3ch 2dc;   *3dc into next 1ch sp* repeat *to* to end, ss to close, break off yarn

Row 6:  Into any sp between 3dc groups,  6ch *1dc, 3ch into next sp between 3dc groups* repeat * to * to end, ss to close, break off yarn

Row 7:  Into any 3ch sp, 3ch 4dc; *5dc into next 3ch sp* repeat *to* to end, ss to close, break off yarn

Row 8:  Into any dc, 3ch;   1dc into each dc to end, ss to close, break off yarn

Row 9:   Into any dc directly in line with dc on row 6:  7ch, 1sc into top of 5th dc from hook;  *6ch, 1sc into top of 5th dc from hook* repeat *to* to end, ss into 1st of 7ch

Row 10:  ss along first three chain of Row 9; sc into 6ch sp; *7ch, sc into 6ch space* repeat *to* to last 6ch sp;  6ch ss into first sc to close, break off yarn

Row 11:  Into any 7ch sp; 3ch, 6dc;  *7dc into each 7ch sp* repeat *to* to end, ss to join.  break off yarn

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Zooty Owl's Crafty Blog: You might like to know: Seaside Winter Blanket C...

Zooty Owl's Crafty Blog: You might like to know: Seaside Winter Blanket C...: You might like to know............ I used the following Elle (Saprotex) colours while designing the blanket (from inner to outer circle on...

Seaside Winter Blanket CAL 2016

You might like to know............

I used the following Elle (Saprotex) colours while designing the blanket (from inner to outer circle on my "colour wheel")

169 Cherry Red (Family Knit DK) (100g)
046 Apricot (Pullskein) (100g)
148 Sunset (Charity) (100g)
222 Lemon White (Family Knit DK) (200g)
061 Soft Lime (Family Knit DK) (100g)
007 Jade (Family Knit DK)
239 Peacock (Family Knit DK)
025 Beige (Family Knit DK) (400g)
058 Saxe Blue (Family Knit DK)

A "colour wheel" will be provided with each tutorial so that you can match your colours should you wish to use the same colours as me.

A photo tutorial will be provided for each of the square patterns and the border.   The final stitch count may vary from square to square.   It is therefore advisable to use a "forgiving" joining method.  I have once again used my VISIBLE JOIN as this provides a flat, even finish regardless of the final stitch count.

There is a "Print Friendly" button at the top of the right hand side bar -  this enables you to save the document as a PDF file or to remove the images and print an ink-saving hard copy.
  
Where possible I will provide a link to online tutorials for any "special" stitches used throughout the project.

The squares may be inclined to pull a bit skew or pucker slightly due to the fact that I have used a fair amount of overlay / textured crochet.    A bit of gentle tugging to straighten the square is mostly sufficient, but I recently purchased a blocking station to block the squares before joining.   (For the South African crocheters - I bought the blocking station for R200 online from New Kayo Bazaar.)

The squares will each be named for a place along the KwaZulu Natal, South Coast in keeping with the Seaside Winter theme.

I hope that you will be joining me on Friday to crochet our first square.......... the "UMZUMBE"!!!!

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